In the construction of the my copy/corrupted clone of the Whistles dress, I hit upon a new one: sewing darts in a knit dress. How do you balance the need to stretch with the required accuracy of sewing a dart?
The knowledgeable ladies from the Pattern Review site had a discussion about this here. Two suggestions are made; sewing with a zig-zag and sewing with a straight stitch. Since the stretch should be across the body, the strain on the stitches would be lateral rather than vertical. I didn’t know how I would sew an accurate dart with a zig-zag and I was still concerned that a moment of hurried dressing would mean a straight stitch would pop. Then on Wednesday I spotted this new post from Tasia at Sewaholic.
Tasia was focusing on how you could use the triple stitch with your normal thread to create an attractive top-stitch effect, without needing to use topstitching thread. But in her post and the following comments it also came up that it could be used as a strong stretch stitch.
I rushed home to check I had this miraculous option and there it was. It had been staring at me all this time on my machine and I hadn’t even registered it…but that’s why I read sewing blogs, to compensate for my doofish-ness.
Having tried it, I’m a convert. It is a little tricky to ensure you finish the dart where you want because the stitch goes back on itself so you need to concentrate to notice when the last stitch is ‘done’. But it holds up when I stretch it in multiple directions.
You can see a glimpse of the fabric I’m using for the corrupt clone in the photo up top. It’s a diagonal tiger stripe print and despite vigorous googling, I can’t work out what kind of knit it is. I’d have said double but I thought that had to be the same colour on both sides and this is black on one side and tiger on the other. It seems to be made up of two fabrics stuck together, so is this a double-faced knit? Opinions gladly welcomed.